About Me
- Eric Rahman
- Madagascar
- Small Enterprise Development Volunteer - Peace Corps Madagascar
Friday, June 29, 2012
A few days at the market
Life has
certainly been nothing short of hectic since my last blog post. The market day presentation that I mentioned
briefly before subsequently caught some momentum and spiraled into three
separate presentations with the help of my other Itasy region CED volunteers in
each of our respective towns. I originally
envisioned a simple speech followed by meet and greet activities, simple
enough. Yet, like most things in Peace
Corps I had absolutely no idea what I was getting myself into. In retrospect I cannot imagine how difficult
it would have been to tackle this project without the help of Sarah and Emma. After mentioning the idea to the two of them,
we decided it would be beneficial to put together a few flip charts, present
together, and do the circuit of our three towns. This ended up making a lot of sense because
the three of us are all CED volunteers partnered with Prosperer in the region
of Itasy. So while we are each the
primary responsible in our respective towns, we will undoubtedly collaborate
often and our work will inevitably overlap.
So in short, while we intended to give a concise standardized spiel in
each town, one, two, three and done, each successive exposition had a
distinctive character and involved a good deal of ‘rolling with the punches.’
To
begin, we tackled my town, Arivonimamo.
The night before we gathered in my apartment to make a few flip charts
which we intended to place on a poster board stand borrowed from my
counterpart. Kudos to Sarah for her
illustrations and handwriting, and kudos to my Malagasy-English dictionary for
making it possible to articulate the role of a CED PCV. The morning of the presentation arrives, we
wake up in my apartment and Emma says, ‘I could really go for some vary ananas
right now.’ (which means watery rice with greens. A Malagasy staple that
believe it or not I’ve come to crave from time to time). So I was on board and we made our downstairs
to the small ‘hotely’ below my apartment (a cheap Malagasy restaurant that
serves rice immediately with whatever side dish they happen to have in stock at
that time). For the ‘loka’ (side dish),
we saw a man eating what appeared to be eggs so we pointed and requested to
have three of the same. Halfway through
the meal the owner, who has by now become a good friend of mine, stopped by to
see how we were enjoying our breakfast.
At this point he was already wise to the fact that we may not have known
what we actually ordered.
‘Tianareo
atidoha ny omby?,’ he says
Pause. ‘avereno
azafady, tsy hazko’ (please repeat, I didn’t understand)
I know
at this point that ‘tia’ is used for ‘to like,’ ‘tianareo’ = ‘do you all like.’
And ‘omby’ is cow. So I’m thoroughly
confused. We’d already remarked to each
other that something wasn’t right about the texture of these eggs.
He
points to his head and repeats, ‘atidoha ny omby.’ All three of our eyes bulge and stomachs
church simultaneously because we were each about halfway through a breakfast of
wet rice and cow brains. I finished mine
off.
So after
starting the day that way we figured things could only go up, and luckily they
did. We situated ourselves in the center
of Arivonimamo’s sprawling market, right in front of the commune, and while the
girls positioned the flip charts, I ran inside to get the table for a community
map activity. Within minutes we were
swarmed by a curious crowd of Malagasy which continued to grow once word spread
that these three ‘vazah’ were speaking in
Malagasy. We functioned as a
well-oiled machine, considering how ad hoc the whole presentation was, with me
giving a continuous speech introducing the three of us, explaining our work and
Peace Corps in general, Sarah directing the community mapping activity and Emma
fielding questions. We kept this up for
roughly two and a half hours and in all I would guess we spoke to a few hundred
people. Hopefully as a result the word
has spread that I’m not French, I’m here to stay, and that I’m not rich, the
importance of this last point cannot be overstated.
We were
all feeling pretty good about how things went and following that high we
proceeded to Ampefy the following week to try our luck there. The town of Ampefy, Emma’s site, is a sleepy
little village in comparison to Arivonimamo, and considered a popular vacation
spot since natural beauty abounds. The
primary draw is lake Ampefy, used both recreationally and as a spot for the
numerous fish farmers that Emma will likely be working with. The town also sports a stunning waterfall and
geysers so it’s no mystery why it’s become such a notable tourist
destination. Much the same as
Arivonimamo, we made camp in front of Ampefy’s commune building and proceeded
to introduce ourselves to anyone who passed by and disseminate as much
information as possible about the Peace Corps Community Economic Development
program. What I particularly enjoyed
from that day was what actually followed the conclusion of our
presentation. That afternoon we were
invited to the local library, a one room community facility which serves as an
extra-curricular center, a benefit that Ampefy enjoys, which many communities
do not, and a testament to the iniative of its community leaders. With a group of roughly 30 young Malagasy
children we sang American songs, played American kids games (thanks in large
part to Sarah’s extensive arsenal of games accumulated during summers as a camp
counselor). We also learned a few
Malagasy kids games, danced a bit, sang a bit, and in all had a pretty great
time together.
To
complete the rotation we ended up in Miarinarivo the following Wednesday for
that town’s large market day. Since
Miarinarivo is the region’s capital and thus the regional headquarters of
Prosperer, when Sarah was negotiating market space with her Mayor, the
‘lehibes’ (important people) of Prosperer got a hold of the idea and decided to
run with it. So I show up early in
morning after a 40 km taxi brousse ride, which in true Malagasy fashion took just
shy of three hours, to find that, per usual, we were to be stationed in front
of the commune, but this time Prosperer had rolled out a large tent, speakers,
music, tables, banners, and a microphone.
To complicate matters, Emma had a graduation ceremony for a Prosperer
youth training program in her town which she was obligated to attend, which let
Sarah and I to complete the final leg of our venture without her. Thankfully Sarah’s Prosperer counterpart, Mr.
Nary, was an active participant and filled the gap. Beginning around 11 am, Sarah, Nary and I
gave speeches, answered questions and did our standard ‘vazah’ song and dance
for nearly three hours. At one point I
was explaining to a crowd of Miarinarivo market goers the three goals of Peace
Corps, for about the fourth or fifth time, when I came to the part about cultural
exchange. This was roughly two hours
into the presentation and the normal fatigue of speaking straight Malagasy was
starting to take hold. When Mr. Nary
noticed the cultural exchange portion this time around he felt it would be a
perfect opportunity to engage the crowd.
So we proceeded to hold a question/answer session about all things
culturally American. They opened with
whether or not we eat rice in the States, and if so, how often? Following with
whether or not I was married, a question that I inexplicably get asked a
disconcerting amount of times by both men and women. Still haven’t figured out why that’s such a
popular area of intrigue. While the
whole experience in Miarinarivo was much more of a production than we initially
bargained for it felt good to go out with a bang.
I’ve
should mention that I’ve been feeling a bit guilty about all the modern
amenities that I’ve been fortunate enough to enjoy as a result of working with
Prosperer so I turned off my lights and wrote this blog by candle light. On my
computer. Which is plugged into my outlet which keeps my laptop alive by virtue
of 24 hour electricity.
‘tsara
vintana aho’ – I’m lucky.
Until
next time, Veloma.
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