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Madagascar
Small Enterprise Development Volunteer - Peace Corps Madagascar

Sunday, May 20, 2012

Prosperer and Arivonimamo


As promised, I want to quick provide a bit of information regarding my new home town, my counterpart organization and some of the potential work that I’ll be doing for the next two years.  As I’ve previously mentioned I was assigned to Arivonimamo, a semi-urban town 48 kilometers from the capital city of Madagascar, Antananarivo.  Barring third year extensions I believe I may be the closest volunteer to the capital city and as I am working with a large national development agency as my counterpart, work will be much more structured and the pace of life will likely move at a faster clip than many people would traditionally associate with Peace Corps.  Arivonimamo is a replacement site, meaning there was a previous volunteer living here and doing similar work.  She was a very impressive volunteer I am told which creates high expectations for me, but I am looking forward to the challenge.  Peace Corps requires that during the first three months at site volunteers complete a Community Diagnostic Survey, which is essentially an in depth report on all aspects of the host community, ranging from health to education, income generating activities to cultural taboos.  As I am just over a week into my time at site there is only so much I have gathered, however I can relay a few of my observations.  Madagascar is subdivided into Regions, broken down further into Districts which are comprised of smaller Communes, made up of individual Fokontanys.  Arivonimamo is situated in the Itasy region in which there are currently four volunteers.  Anders, an education volunteer arrived over a year ago and I have yet to meet him.  The other two volunteers, Emma and Sarah, come from my stage, or training group, and live in Ampefy and Miaranarivo (the regional capital) respectively.  The district of Arivonimamo is comprised of more than 20 separate communes, and as I reside directly downtown in the district, my commune’s name is the title track of the district, Arivonimamo.  As I’ve previously mentioned the district is composed of an assortment of Fokontanys, many of which can be classified as ‘ambany vohitra’ or countryside, so even though I live downtown, I will likely be commuting on foot or by bike often to work in the rural villages.  The different communes throughout the region have different days on which they organize their large markets.  Here in Arivonimamo we hold ours on Fridays and for this upcoming market Friday, following a discussion with the mayor, I was able to procure a small spot near the commune building where I’ll be putting together a small presentation on Peace Corps, and hopefully doing some community integration activities.  I’m really looking forward to having such a large forum to introduce myself and I figure it will be a great way to gather some information about my community from a random sampling of Arivonimamo market attendees.

            The work I will be doing here in Arivonimamo will be in association with my counterpart agency, Prosperer but will be predominately self-directed.  Prosperer is a support program for rural microenterprises and regional economies. It is affiliated to the International Fund for Agricultural Development (IFAD) under the Ministry of Agriculture, the Ministry of Economy and Industry and in collaboration with the Federation of Chamber of Commerce and Industry.  The organization works in five regions here in Madagascar with high population densities and partners with host organizations within each community.  Here they work in tandem with the Center of Information, Technology and Economics (CITE), with the principal objective of increasing the incomes of Madagascar’s rural poor by consolidating Rural Micro Enterprises at local and regional levels. Prosperer, as my counterpart agency, is the organization which put in the request for a Peace Corps volunteer so I have an obligation to work within their framework to a certain degree but as a Community Economic Development volunteer the focus is nearly identical.  I will be most closely working with those associations and cooperatives affiliated with Prosperer assisting in business planning, trainings, identifying market linkages and potential export opportunities.  There is a plethora of existing organizations I could choose to work with including sisal and raffia weavers, zebu horn sculptors, blacksmiths, carpenters, and silk weavers, who produce a particularly unique and beautiful product of Madagascar.  Arivonimamo has a very well established community of silk weavers who create a remarkable variety of products from a silk produced by a worm that is endemic to Madagascar and found in Tapia forests not far from the districts center.  I also intend to work with a youth fruit drying organization, which was registered as an official cooperative shortly before I arrived.  The president of the fikambanana (association) has already become a close friend of mine and I’m especially looking forward to that project.  I should also make note that all volunteers who are lucky enough to be partnered with Prosperer receive the benefit of very nice accommodations, since it is the counterpart organization that is charged with securing housing for the volunteers.  As such I live in a beautiful two story flat situated in the center of town, with 24 hour electricity and hot running water.  To be quite honest I feel more like an ex-pat doing development work abroad than a traditional Peace Corps volunteer. Still, I couldn’t be happier because as a result I know I’ll have the opportunity to engage in high profile work and cultivate skills that will serve me well when I return home.  The more I’ve thought about it the more I’ve realized that even though I’m not living in a mud hut and showering with a bucket, urban poverty is equally as devastating as rural poverty and I still have the opportunity to immerse myself in the very rich cultural traditions of Madagascar, which have in no way been whitewashed by the westernization that often comes with urban modernization.  What’s more, Madagascar is still one of the poorest countries on earth, a victim of rampant inflation and a stagnating economy, due in no small part to the political limbo that the country has been frozen in since the 2009 coup.  The evidence of economic degeneration is staggering and the political outlook is not promising so there will certainly be no shortage of work.

I’ll quick end by letting you all know that before sitting down this morning to write this blog post I was riding back from my banking town in a Taxi-brousse, which is the primary Malagasy form of transportation between towns and consists of 20 or so people crammed into a small van.  I was riding back and chatting with the guy sitting next to me, and though he was practically sitting on my lap for lack of space, we were actually having a pretty good conversation…. and then his baby threw up on me.  So that was pretty wild. 

I should also quick mention that between when I wrote the first part of this blog post and right now (evening) I’ve gone out with a few of my new Malagasy friends and was told that even though my skin is white, I’m already a Malagasy, which is something I’ve been striving for, and we made plans to have a small get together and kill a chicken this Sunday in my apartment. Until next time, veloma. 

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